Americans in Paris

Oscar Wilde said that good Americans go to Paris when they die, but for many the ville lumière was a regular destination in life, and for some, the one place where they felt free to live realized, adult lives.  Herewith, a few titles by and about notable American lovers of Paris:

Paris was Yesterday by Janet Flanner

This is a lovely collection of the Paris Letters which were published in Harold Ross’s New Yorker during the 1920’s and the 1930’s.  Ross told her to report not what she thought about Paris and France, but what the French thought-and so she did.  Wonderful vignettes of people like Carlo Ponzi the con man, Marlene Dietrich, Colette, and Coco Chanel, make that distant era come alive. 

 Paris in the Fifties by Stanley Karnow

A treasure from a Time Magazine writer who spent many years in France after the second world war.  Karnow met and married a Frenchwoman, learned fluent French, interviewed or met or quarreled with everybody who was anybody in the 1950’s.  Unexpected dividend: a detailed portrait of Ho Chi Minh. Another, the discussion of the rise of the House of Dior. Still another, a close account of the Sartre-de Beauvoir-Camus matrix, followed by eager French-like sports figures. 

Being Geniuses together, 1920-1930 by Robert McAlmon 

A classic self-serving memoir of Paris, with preface and afterword as correctives by Kay Boyle. McAlmon although unproductive as a writer, edited a literary journal published with his wife’s money and a series of short novels, the Contact editions, but he knew everybody and trades on that acquaintance in this book.  Kay Boyle, novelist and poet, political activist, victim of McCarthy, was also famous for whom she knew and lived a long, principled, active life.  Her first novel was published by the Black Sun Press, owned by Harry and Caresse Crosby, two rich, famous, and doomed figures of 1920’s Paris.

Exiled in Paris: Richard Wright, James Baldwin, Samuel Beckett and others on the Left Bank, 1946-60 by James Campbell. 

An engrossing account of the many who left where they were from for Paris and a life of creativity-or so they believed.  For Wright, the pleasure of life in a relatively prejudice-free France was not enough-Campbell suggests that he ‘needed’ the goad of American racism to produce his work-and he lost the connection with his fellow writers early on.  Campbell discusses the possibility that Wright was associated (unwillingly) with the FBI and talks about his large file with the agency.  For Baldwin, Paris offered little money, but a kind of fulfillment-freedom from the religion-laced upbringing, the ability to be freely gay, and outspoken in his belief that Wright’s characters were just another variant on Uncle Tom.  Beckett was not an American, but his escape to Paris to write in peace (in an adopted language) represents a similar trajectory.  This great book offers portraits of others as well, among the notables Chester Himes, a former convict and author of amusing detective stories, and Maurice Girodias, founder of Olympia Press. Girodias, an Englishman, published some raw erotica  (Marquis de Sade’s Justine was an early title), but also provided a home for Henry Miller (Tropic of Cancer) Vladimir Nabokov (Lolita) and William Burroughs (Naked Lunch). 

Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas by Gertrude Stein

This amusing valentine from Gertrude to Alice depicts the early life of one of the most famous literary couples of all time. Although hardly an objective witness, Stein nails certain literary figures (Ezra Pound: ‘a village explainer. Very nice if you’re a village, but if not, not’) and does not stint on her judgments of Hemingway, Joyce, et al. The lives of creative lesbian women in Paris is a whole story of its own; there are many biographies of people like Natalie Barney, Romaine Brooks, Dolly Wilde, et al., but the story of gay men who went to Paris for creative and personal freedom remains to be told.  (There is a little bit in James Baldwin’s novels Giovanni’s Room and Another Country.)

                                               ~  John S.

6 responses to “Americans in Paris”

  1. Another great American in Paris book is “I’ll Always Have Paris” by the humor journalist, Art Buchwald. This covers his early years there from 1949 into the fifties and includes his classic “The Seven Minute Louvre”. He is a raconteur and fun for those old enough to remember when his gentle Everyman style was funny.

  2. John Sheets

    Thanks for the tip, I will look for the book you recommend. Another interesting person although I don’t know of a book he wrote about Paris (correct me somebody!) is A. J. Liebling, who loved the food of Paris, at the very least.

  3. For a very different view, down to earth with the people of Paris between world wars, than stories about literary greats try The Last Time I Saw Paris (no kin of the movie) by Elliott Paul. He stayed after WWI in la Rue Huchette until WWII and truly became part of the working class (now trendy) Left Bank neighborhood that he so sympathetically describes. From how rooms were heated with small coal stoves to how milk was delivered he gives a vivid picture of the classic French lifestyle and an understanding of the French joie de vivre from the roots up. Unfortunately, SPL, has no copy of this work so I am going to give Elliott Paul’s Understanding the French a try. He really has a literary style and an insightful understanding. Of course there is The Moveable Feast by Hemingway, but there is room there only for his huge ego and about 4 or 5 things in Paris he liked.

  4. John Sheets

    If you would like, SPL can try to get the Elliott Paul title by interlibrary loan for you. I know he was acquainted with Margaret Anderson, and photographed by Berenice Abbott, but not much else about him…
    and you are SO right about Moveable Feast.

  5. Memoirs of Montparnasse by John Glassco is another interesting account. Glassco was an educated would be writer of 18 when he wrote the first 3 chapters of this book as they happened in Paris and finished the book from a Montreal hospital when he was 22 thus his experiences in the expatriate community of Montparnasse breathe the heady cynicism, hedonism, and idealism of youth. The time is 1928-1929, the peak, if you will, of the famous period of literary and artistic expatriates in Paris. Most of the expected names are dropped, but it is the actual experiences of the Canadian Glassco and his friends that are most interestingly told in a style full of insouciance and youthful abandon. Many forms of sexuality are gracefully implied, but no prurient details are given which is just as well. As a slice of Montparnasse in its heyday or as a memoir of the celebration of physical and intellectual youth this is a very readable book. For an evocation of the French lifestyle at this time you are better off with Elliot Paul. In the last chapter Glassco has his friend Graeme tell him, “You were in love with Paris. You thought it was the Great Good Place. Well, it’s not. You were in love with a dream.” He goes on to say “It was a dream of excellence and beauty, one that does not exist anywhere in real life. Montparnasse and its people came very close to it.” He knew Robert McAlmon quite well and liked him, although he depicts him as a very cynical man with nothing but criticism for everyone’s writing style. Next I’ll read Being Geniuses Together and see how McAlmon paints Glassco.

  6. Upon seeing a preview of a soon to be released movie with Meryl Streep playing Julia Child I decided to view some of her cooking shows from SPL’s video collection in preparation. When I saw “My Life in France” I decided that it, too, would be interesting. It certainly is. Julia (aided by a co-writer) tells us of her years in France, principally in the post WWII 40s and 50s, learning to love France and its cuisine. She is a freshly different voice from the ex-pat artist/writer wannabes. She truly loved the French, their life, and their cuisine and she is a very straightforward guide to the way life actually was in Paris for the French.

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